This trek was a totally different experience right from the planning stage. Only one thing was sure, I wanted to do the trek. But there were lots of doubts like whether it was okay to travel now, whether I’d be able to complete the trek etc. It’s been 1.5 years since I travelled and 2 years since by last trek. I was at peak frustration with lots of problems, this time in a different way, it was spoiling my mental health and changing my character but that’s for another day.
What I thought would be a main problem was the fitness. Ever since corona hit, in March 2020 I hadn’t worked out. So, I made it a point that I’d start my workout a good 6-7 months before the trek. I started on January, faced a lot of struggles but I kept my resolution going on till May. Just when I was about to hit my target, I was affected with covid. I was devasted. It was a very important phase for me and I had some other responsibilities too but if I had achieved the target that I had set for the fitness I’d have been so satisfied. Would have been a great birthday present but that got spoilt. I knew now that, after that I would not be able to achieve the target before the trek, even though I recover from corona.
Of course, the death scares and all was there for couple of days, then the irritating quarantine but even after coming out of it I was not sure as to what to do. Each article had a separate story. So, I decided to take my compulsory family time and didn’t work out at all. two months passed by and when the second wave was getting to an end, treks were filling up like crazy. I was like, “where were all these people till now?” I planned for trek in august first week but only august mid-week slot was available.
Booking too wasn’t easy because I know if it gets cancelled, we would not be getting the money back so I was in doubts. Generally, I have the habit of informing a set of people before trek but this time I invited only 4-5 people and followed up only with two and both of them came. They were Raja and Andal. Good thing was that they didn’t have any doubts. While I was asking them with confusion whether we should book then or save it for later, both gave an immediate go ahead. That lessened my confusion. It was like how my friend Lokesh solved the confusion between twelfth field trip and Anniyan film. As silly as it may sound, these were life decisions for me.
Day 1 – Take off: Reporting at Sonamarg Base Camp (8792 ft)
8/12/2021
With that we were set to travel on August 12th. I guess this was the first trek where we didn’t meet in decathlon before travelling. We met each other only on the day of travel. Our major concern was what to eat for that day. I didn’t want to risk eating out before the trek and thankfully Raja too was of the same opinion. As it was early morning flight, I didn’t want to disturb my folks to prepare food for me. Raja bought Thakkali Thokku (a tomato paste kind of thing) with chapati, which was amazing. All that was running in my mind was when to open that.
I gave whopping four hundred and fifty rupees as auto fare by choosing someone known to us, whereas even cab cost was only three hundred rupees. So, I was dropped at the gate. Raja came by cab within minutes and as usual Andal came last. We took few mandatory selfies. This time wanted to shoot a vlog too so I tried recording but was not at all comfortable doing so.
We took the early morning Air India flight and as soon as the flight took off, we opened the parcel. It was love at first sight seeing Raja’s Thakkali Thokku. After making a short video while take off, we feasted on it. To our surprise we got breakfast too. So, we stopped with just one chapati and continued with the breakfast from flight. Once our stomach was full, we slept gleefully.
Delhi airport gave a deserted view at start, so were better equipped to take videos. We got into the next flight immediately. Thankfully there wasn’t much of a layover. We finished off the remaining chapati’s in the next flight. The flight time from Delhi to Srinagar wasn’t much so it didn’t feel like a burden.
Our good old friend Sahil, whose hotel we stayed during our Amarnath trek helped us with the cab. He was a jolly good guy who was talkative and presentable. Generally, I’ve noticed Kashmiri’s to have good English. It felt easier to manage in English in Kashmir than in other parts of North India. We were charged Rs. 2800 for cab from Srinagar to Sonamarg, which I found to be nominal after inquiring with few people.
As it was an early morning flight, I thought we’d reach there by 2 PM worst case but it took us an hour more. Raja wanted to find a sim, thankfully he didn’t get it, plus Andal’s sim was working in Srinagar as it was postpaid. Around 3 PM we reached Hotel Sonamarg Palace, the base camp of the trek and YHAI volunteers welcomed us with food, first up. I knew as soon as we hit YHAI camp, food would never be a problem. They asked us to eat first and then submit the necessary documents.
After eating, Raja and I settled in a room and Andal in another room. She was the first in her room, I think. In our room there were couple of more folks. To our surprise, there was hot water flowing in the bathroom and that was piping hot. I had mentally prepared my next bath was going to be after a week but hot water was such a surprise. So took hot water bath and slept. Got superb couple of hours sleep. In the evening just walked out hazily without much thought. We had a never ending camp fire thanks to Doordarshan recording our activity, which was irritating as we had to sit outside in cold but thankfully as Raja was there in our side, we weren’t restless because there was someone to represent our gang if compelled. But that day’s activities were by the batch who were to start the trek the next day.
Day 2 – Orientation, Training & Acclimatization walk
8/13/2021
One of the main reasons I chose YHAI was not just for money and availability but they give extra time for acclimatization. And in this case, I was thinking of going to Thajiwas glacier that day as I didn’t get an opportunity to visit Sonamarg last time while tripping Amarnath.
We got up and had warm up that day which was quite difficult in that altitude but with so many seniors doing it, it’s a shame we don’t do it well. After the warmup and breakfast, we went for acclimatization walk led by a YHAI volunteer. Unluckily for us he didn’t want to take us till glacier, which was a very bad move because the glacier was just a walking distance from there. So, the same day I decided that I’d visit the glacier once I return from the trek.
We shot few photos, videos. Raja wanted to have Kahwah, which he did in a small shop next to our rest point and shared toffees and biscuits to the kids. Tried to stop him from doing that but I thought he’d learn with time. Venkat was there with us and it was the first proper meetup with someone aside from our group. Because it was some environmental week, we were asked to do a cleanup activity which many were so enthusiastic about. We had one of the loaded bags with us while coming down. Even though we wasted a lot of time, we caught up with the remaining people in the end.
Once back we took rest again and Gulzar gave a long talk about dos and don’ts. Wonder how my friends who don’t understand Hindi would have felt hearing that. After the orientation we walked to Sonamarg market. The roadside mutton kebabs were tempting but I didn’t want to have it before the trek. Andal and Raja bought sunglasses and had Pani Puri. By the time we came back it was getting colder. We got YHAI bags and sleeping cloth, deposited our luggage and got ready for dinner. Again, after dinner we had camp fire with some over enthu people. Thanks to Raja, we nominated him for singing and saved ourselves from embarrassment. But that day I loved the Shayari vibe created by someone in the group which had completed the trek. Even though I didn’t understand fully, it gave me a ‘Dedh Ishiya’ feel. I loved the way our roommate John cited a couple of them. Loved that feel before sleeping.
Day 3 – Trek to Nichnai camp (11948 ft) (10 km)
8/14/2021
Our group had around twenty people as opposed to the thirty people in the previous groups. It took some more time than usual for the flag off ceremony to happen, which was pissing off the coordinators. Anyways we flagged off around 8 AM. Our guides were introduced to us. We had to walk along the road initially. Raja went off again to buy chocolates. After few minutes’ walk, I realized that I had forgotten my cup and water bottle which I had kept it in the dining area. It was a new water bottle with sipper so I was pissed that I had lost it along with the cup I use only for trekking.
In some time, we took a you turn to the mountains and I saw one of our guides, Saddam calling someone. Realizing that he had network I made a call and asked someone to keep it safe. I was satisfied that I at least did my bit.
As soon as we started the climb our papers were checked by military. It took a lot of time and it was getting cold. We saw that there were a lot of colorful trekkers from other groups too who had started their trek along with us. From there it was constant ascent which kept on going. Raja and Andal were all enthu and were clicking lot of pictures. After a lot of time, we saw everyone resting near a hut. I thought it’d be lunch point but it was Maggi point. We spent or rather wasted around 1.5 hours there. Easily that could have been made lunch point, which didn’t happen so we ourselves made it as lunch point. We also used that time to take some good photos.
The second leg of the trek was even more irritating because Andal, Raja and I got separated from the group. It was getting late and the camp was nowhere to be seen. At some point we thought we were lost so we stayed in a hut by locals as it was getting cold like hell. Andal had energy to play with kids but I was irritated. Somehow another group passed by and showed us the way. We finally reached the base came around 7 PM. Thankfully light was there, so it was okay. I was expecting welcome drink, snacks etc. but nothing was available, that was the most disappointing thing of all. Never expected such a treatment from YHAI.
Nichnai camp was cold and we were tired so as soon as dinner came, we hogged and slept. There was no warm down or warm up of any sorts on that day and in the days to come as well. Our tent mates were Ankit Bhai, who was our trek leader and was the one who was there in the room on the day we arrived. Along with him Prashanth, Venkat, Abilash, Aaron, Sagun and of course Raja joined. At night instead of campfire we had Tamil vs Hindi antakshari in our tent with Apoorva and Andal as guests, which went on for a while before sleeping.
And that night’s sleep didn’t go well at all. It was raining heavily with a lot of thunder. I was shit scared lying inside. I didn’t dare open my eyes to look what’s happening or talk with anyone else to know about the situation. My only fear before sleeping was, I shouldn’t have an urge to loo. But the situation became different. I was imagining thunders striking our tent, winds blowing away our tent, rains making our tent wet etc. Even when we were camping on our own without even a sleeping bag on a cold rainy night in Tadiandamol, where camping was not actually allowed, I was not that scared. In fact, I was all enthu that day but here I was the opposite. After two years I didn’t want a trek to get cancelled. Of course, I was making a backup plan to Leh and all that, still I didn’t want to have arrears while going back. I already have a big one pending.
Day 4 – Blizzard Day
8/15/2021
We woke up to snow and clouds in the morning. Of course, its romantic on the outlook but I didn’t have a good feeling. But if people around you are happy it automatically transforms your mood. Andal, Raja, Venkat and our tent mates were happy to wake up to such view. I was telling Raja and Andal about previous night’s feelings but not in great detail.
During breakfast there were rumors about weather not being good but we proceeded with the trek. Oh, and it was Independence Day so the patriotic us sang National Anthem before proceeding. But warmup, that we didn’t do. There was a stream crossing and tough climb as soon as we started the trek which was exhausting people. Raja was walking in front so I caught up with him at top, which had a great view. But the happiness was short lived because it started raining and Raja didn’t have raincoat. Seriously? A man who carried pillow during a trek, didn’t bring raincoat. I was irritated with his carelessness but it was of no use talking about it at that instant. Thankfully Venkat helped him with his Poncho.
The rain turned into a snowfall and that excited even me. Letting away the consciousness, I was enjoying the moment. Everyone was tired after the climb but first snowfall was lovely to watch. Our guide, Niyaz asked me whether we should return because the weather doesn’t look good. I told at least we can try till lunch point and return back if weather doesn’t permit. He was like, what’s the use to go till there if we can’t return back. And started walking from there. On the way there was a small lake, I asked him whether it is Nichnai lake, he told, “yes”. He wasn’t in a mood to explain anything, which was clear.
Well, the happiness of snowfall didn’t last long. The intensity of the snowfall got higher and it was in the direction towards us so it was impossible to even open our eyes. Our hands were getting numb and there was zero visibility. I knew Raja had gone in front and Andal was behind, I didn’t know whether to go forward or stay back. Vidya from our group was just before me and she asked me to help her with gloves. She was visibly in pain when I got her gloves. I thought I’d find Andal along the way but it was like a path were only one can walk so I couldn’t wait too. With people and horses coming in we had to constantly keep walking. Good thing was none stopped that day for break.
After a long and arduous never-ending walk, we saw a hut. And horses were standing there. I was happy that at last we got some point to rest. That was a Maggi point where people from all organizations were resting. Everyone was visibly cold, so none minded the cramped space and wet floor. Venkat was eating his bread omelet and Maggi as usual. No matter which tea point we went he’d be there with his Omelet and Maggi. Generally, I too like Maggi but this time I was totally uninterested towards food. Even the enthu I have after the trek to eat heavy stuff wasn’t there, let alone drinking. Andal got lucky with Beedi which kept her warm.
Near the place we were sitting, someone was constantly shouting Jenny, Jenny… She was from Trek the Himalayas and was suffering, I guess. Within minutes it was decided that we’d return back. Among our batchmates, guess Burma’s shoe was torn and Aaron’s wife was feeling really cold. So, Aaron did a nice pep talk about rescue mission. Ever since Gulzar talked about Helicopter rescue, Raja was asking whether would helicopter come then.
We decided we’d go back to the previous day’s camp in one file. Actually, there was a group which was telling about reaching the base camp the same day and some talking about going till Maggi point. I was super pissed knowing that. It was atrocious to cancel the trek without even waiting for a day. Thankfully there were few who thought like me and most of us decided that we’d go till Nichnai camp and take a call.
This time Raja and I walked last. Donna, who was supposedly having a tough time was walking well in front of me and Burma was in front of her. Behind me there was Raja, John, Aaron and Apoorva. I liked the gang of Aaron, Burma and Donna. They had a good Mumbai vibe about them. Without stopping anywhere, we reached near the base camp but again Andal and I missed the people in front of us and didn’t know where the camp was. Finally, we found it in sometime and crashed in immediately.
Inside the tent, our maga, Abilash was stripped off and inside the sleeping bag. He told how he returned back midway. Raja came in a while and told John was having a really tough time getting down and repeatedly pointing on how he slid a long distance, which made Aaron and Raja look in awe.
None were ready to go down from there as it was already 4.30 PM. If we had stretched a bit, we’d have reached down but I didn’t want that to happen. It meant we didn’t give a chance to try going forward the next day. At least, first task succeeded and we didn’t go down. People from the next day’s camp too had come down that day and there was chaos that sleeping bags won’t fit but we told for sure we were not moving and we’d adjust. Thankfully they went down so we had place for staying.
Nichnai base camp got sunlight in sometime, actually it hadn’t snowed there that day, so we were good. Guides were pissed off that we didn’t go down, they wanted to go down at least the next day and Camp Leader too was supporting them but we said at least we’d try the next day and go back down if it doesn’t work out. The drama happened the whole day.
Again, the evening snacks didn’t come on time and the staffs looked uninterested but as sun shone we got enthu and started clicking pictures. There were lot of rumors coming in and one among it is that the guides didn’t want to go forward so anyways they’d take everyone down the next day. I was insisting that whoever interested should not let it happen and also worst case, was having Leh plan at the back of the mind. Raja was excited for that too. He said he got the money’s worth with that day’s experience. We were fooling around and taking pictures and videos. Prashanth joined us in a while, thanks to his good quality phone, we got few good clicks. Kallol, Prachi and Sakshi were at the other end. Only from that day I got Kallol’s name. Before that he was a ‘Go Pro’ guy because he was constantly there with his Go Pro, shooting time lapse videos. I thought him to be a mallu guy but he was not.
Most of our tent guys including Raja, Prashanth, Venkat, Ankit wanted to go up. Kallol was in a dilemma. Among girls as far as I knew, only Andal had confirmed to go forward. Rest of the group had decided to return back. There was heated discussion that day and we went into deep slumber as it was a tiring day. Luckily the night was very quiet and there were no rains. That’s how an eventful day got over.
Day 5 – Trek to Vishnusar Camp (12152 ft) 9km. Via Nichnai Pass (13458 ft)
8/16/2021
The first thing I noticed once I came out was, there was no snow. I felt relieved. Also, to the dismay of our guides, the weather looked clear. As soon as we came out there were talks by the guides about how the weather was bad and we couldn’t go up. Trek guides and Camp Leader took the side and the ones who want to go up had to do a lot of drama like trying to convince the Camp Leader, calling the Event Coordinator and getting permission. It was a horrible mood to start the day.
Kallol, Prachi, Sakshi and Apoorva too decided to stay back and ascend. The rest of them bid farewell. Actually, everyone could have done the trek, because in the nearby camp of Trek the Himalayas which Raja inquired, the Trek Leader and the local guides were very much optimistic, as opposed to ours.
Even though half of our batch went down, our Camp Leader repeatedly cited that he would go down and we won’t be able to stay if a situation like previous day occurs. That’s how pessimistic the situation was but we were not worried, we knew that we could reach at least the Maggi Point of Day 1 if not the base camp so we set off for the trek with totally pissed off guides and bid goodbye to the Camp Leader who wasn’t even making eye contact.
To think that we had to climb the same path again was irritating. Plus, the guides attitude was annoying. But to be honest the scenery felt entirely different without snow. The previous day I was kidding that they advertised KGL as fifty shades of green but it was only one shade of white. Today the whites were dissolving and greens were visible. We thought the path would be slippery and climb would be tough but it wasn’t as bad as we expected. Plus, the determination to complete the trek was strong with whoever chose to climb. We didn’t want to go back down again and let the guides win.
From there it was a gradual descent but the last leg in plains was irritating. Due to the heat, I was getting headache. Prashanth and Venkat were walking in front and I joined them in a forever walk. Finally, we reached the campsite, which was lovely. Immediately we were given welcome drink. Everyone was astonished, we were like, finally! We even told them the same.
The camp leader had gone down already because his duty was over. Prashanth informed that he saw us in the Maggi Point and went down the previous day when it was snowing. So, it was left to us and the guides and kitchen staff to manage whatever happens. I was getting headache and was afraid it’d be AMS so kept on sipping water. I also instructed Raja to do what in case it gets severe on me. Andal was like, “why are you over thinking?” Well, I’ll never forget Chandra Taal.
After loads of Tang, we set off to view Vishnusar Lake which was absolutely brilliant. We were satisfied that at least we saw one of the so-called Great Lakes so even if the next day flops and we had to return back, we would be satisfied. We spent a good amount of time there taking pictures and relaxing. My headache too flew off so I was relieved. There was satisfaction in everyone’s face because we all knew we crossed the first hurdle successfully. I think Apoorva, Raja and Kallol were trying to capture the stars at night or maybe I was dreaming about the stars already.
Day 6 – Trek to Gadsar (10777 ft) 10 KM. via Gadsar Pass (13763 ft)
8/17/2021
Probably the toughest day as informed by many. This time I didn’t read up much on the terrain and stuff as it’d spoil the surprise but one of the shepherds whom we met near the lake the previous day was encouraging, saying that the weather is great and if we start early, we’d be able reach the next camp by 2 PM. Of course, I knew that it was impossible but I thought at least by day light we’d be able to reach.
With determination we set off for the day, we had to cross a boulder section to start off the trek. Apoorva was struggling on that but she crossed it with some help. After that, just like the previous day, there was a steep ascent and from that side the view of Vishnusar Lake was even more brilliant. With the reflection of mountains, the lake was surreal, probably the best lake I had seen in my life. We took some photos and in the process of getting a good click, I climbed a sharp rock and tore my pants. Thankfully Andal’s fleece was there to the rescue. Surprisingly, I was not irritated by it. On the contrary, I was happy that somehow that pant tore because I tried a lot to throw it away but it simply won’t tear. After few minutes’ walk, I got to a point where I could change my pants. That gave me enthu to walk brisker.
I was in good mood the whole day. The next lake we found out was Kishansar Lake, which was great and secluded too. Many didn’t stop there because a daunting Gadsar Pass was next to it. The climb looked scary from down but was fun. After taking few quick photos we proceeded towards it. This time Raja and I was at the last, with me motivating/irritating Prachi on the way. We made an imaginary race between Andal, who was climbing from another side and her. Finally, after two hours of struggle we reached the top of Gadsar Pass.
Probably the toughest part of the trek was over. There were many trek guides encouraging their group saying that the toughest part of the trek was over and now they’d complete KGL. On the left side of the peak there were amazing views of Kishansar and Vishnusar twin lakes on one side and a series of small lakes on another side. First one was Yamsar and then a nameless lake and then Gadsar. But I saw more than three lakes I believe. I clicked a couple of photos there and tried to call Raja and Andal up but they didn’t notice. So, I came down and Raja said, “Dei ange pathiya Jyothika” (did you see Jyothika there) It didn’t strike me first but actress Jyothika was sitting there. Without knowing what to do, I immediately asked whether I could take a selfie and took one. Ideally, I wouldn’t have wanted to disturb her privacy but as soon as one gets star struck, nothing comes in mind before. But thankfully I took a selfie before conscience struck me because if I had started thinking I wouldn’t have got that picture. So, that’s another encouragement on reaching the peak.
It was a lovely descent from there with lakes on your left. We got a great meadow where we rested and had lunch. Water too wasn’t chill so it felt good to wash hands and face after a while. After spending a lot of time at the lunch point, we started to Gadsar camp. As soon as we passed the lunch point, Gadsar Lake was in full glory. If we had walked another hundred meters, we could have made that as lunch point but our lovely guides had other ideas.
While it was a plain walk, it wasn’t irritating like the previous day. I had a sense of achievement of completing the toughest pass. Andal wanted to rest at different places. Raja, Andal, Prashanth and I walked towards the final leg and there was this moment where I felt happy. We were just sitting and there weren’t great views but the talks were nice and mood was terrific. Andal was playing some great songs. Those were undefinable moments but I’m glad that I remember it and could document it.
Gadsar Camp came in a while and we were welcomed with Tea. The Camp Leader there looked strict. Venkat who had trekked Kedarkantha with YHAI before told the same. After we all settled in, he gave a talk on dos and don’ts. Without slipper I was finding it terrible to stand. There were lots of doubts by people. I guess it came more out of excitement like how first benchers react for theorems but food was great. It was a local delicacy which tasted like Brinjal. The Camp Leader was supportive and made us feel safe and that led to a good night’s sleep. We almost stopped thinking about returning back. We now knew that we’d complete the trek. We got that confidence.
Day 7 – Trek to Satsar (11860 ft) 12 km.
8/18/2021
Probably my favorite day of the trek. It was breeze. Initially we had to cross a small glacier which was slippery and kind of scary but after that it was nice smooth walk. There was one small path where we climbed and post that the views were breathtaking.
It was Sakshi’s birthday. She was the favorite person of Andal and I. I asked Raja to sing “Nalam Vaazha” song. Raja as usual was game for it. Maybe she wouldn’t have understood the meaning but it’s one amazing birthday dedication. Opposite to it was Harmukh peak which our guide, Saddam said is not so. Anyways I’m not keen in checking what’s the mountain’s name. For me it’s the terrain that I love the most. I don’t get high in identifying the mountains. It all looks the same to me.
As soon as we started from there, it reminded me of “Vidai Kodu Engal Naade” song and Raja’s next song request was ready. We shot a nice video of people moving like refugees in the mountain. Within some time, we reached the next Army camp where our ID cards were again verified. From there we saw a number of lakes. Our guide Nawaz said all lakes don’t have names, there are seven lakes like that and together they are called Satsar. I was not sure whether it was the right answer but I didn’t have any other choice so believed him.
We had lunch point in about an hour and there were people doing headstand and clicking pictures. Of course, our guy was leading the pack there too. Surprisingly that day though, the camp came as soon as we crossed the lake. Prashanth couldn’t hide his excitement on seeing the camp.
Raja on the other hand was excited for something else. He saw a lady taking photoshoot in red saree and told its Jyothika. That excited me too. We were like, “oh so that’s why she has come here” but fortunately or unfortunately it was not her. Andal who wanted to take photo in saree in mountains hired the saree but it was Raja who wore it and did a ‘Kanchana’ thing. Jenny from Trek the Himalayas was having a good laugh seeing that. The remaining members too arrived at the camp when the act was going on.
The Camp Leader for the day was an enthusiastic person who said he’d arrange something special for Sakshi’s birthday. We set off to watch a couple of hidden lakes. The path to it looked scary but just like every day we reached the spot. Raja was more enthusiastic because the guide told him we’d get lassi there. After spending some time and clicking pictures I saw few people taking bath and going behind that lake to second lake. I asked our guide and our ever-enthusiastic guide rejected the proposal. That was a big miss. It was just few minutes from there but our guide was not keen on it. Anyways I saw the pictures of the lake from another group’s people and got satisfied with that.
Prashanth had an imagination like he dropped something because he heard a “dubuk” sound. Sakshi was like, it would have been “duboak” because something big would have gone down. Actually, it’s tough to explain but I’m sure people who were there would have a good laugh thinking of that.
While returning we went to a tea shop where we had a horrible salt tea and buttermilk (disguised as lassi). Raja couldn’t take even a sip of that tea. I didn’t feel like throwing away the tea so had his. Buttermilk was also with some pungent smell because both were made with goat’s milk. I was excited about the goat milk think but it tasted meh.
While returning down Prashanth met his crush or rather crushes, a Rasgulla like Kolkata sisters whom he felt like he could do “gulu gulu gulu,” meaning pinch their cheeks. He was in some form that day. We had a small little chat with them, much to the satisfaction of Prashanth and returned down.
For dinner we got Gulab Jamun as special dessert. Thanks to Sakshi. We decided, going forward, each day we’d cite its someone’s birthday and get more Gulab Jamun. With happy tummy we had a good night’s sleep.
Day 8 – Trek to Gangabal (11482 ft) 10 km via Zach Pass (13428 ft)
8/19/2021
We were told that the day’s trek was going to be just like the previous day so we were enthusiastic about it. But the initial walk by itself was a scary boulder climb. If the path to the hidden lake looked treacherous, this one looked impossible. I actually love boulder walks but that day, was kind of scared because there were too many people too close to each other, both in front and in back. A little mishap anywhere would have caused injuries to every other person.
In some time, we climbed the first hurdle. We saw Jyothika again at the top and seeing her take video, Raja commented that I’d surely be there in the video and guess what I’m there in her Instagram video, which also is her first post. Good observation skills, Raja. The boulder path continued for some time but it wasn’t as difficult as the first one. After going through a zig zag path where the horses joined us, we had to wait a lot of time to give way. Then it was a gradual ascent and another zig zag steep ascent like Gadsar Pass. But this time it wasn’t that difficult. Finally, after lots of huffs and puffs we climbed the Zach Pass, after which it was only descent for the next two days. Again, we saw Jyothika for one last time, who was taking photos with a number of lakes in the background. That spot gave a great view of Hemukh Peak, a number of unnamed lakes, Gangbal and Nandkol.
From there it was an irritating steep descent. Also, that day there were no water source. Having lost my water bottle down I couldn’t get water from Andal and Raja as well. We rested at one point and reached the lunch point quickly. From the top, our camp was visible so we thought as soon as lunch got over, we’d reach the camp. None were interested to see lakes anymore. So, we had a relaxed lunch. But instead of taking us in the path which one of the groups, guess Bangalore Mountaineering Club, was going, we were taking a different path.
We reached Gangbal Lake, which reminded me of the lake which Anushka dives in the introductory scene of ‘Jab Tak Hai Jaan’. It would have been a great experience to sit and relish but another group which was before us had other ideas. They were a bunch of hooligans who were shouting and making sound by getting into the water. I read somewhere that these lakes were sacred for the locals and one shouldn’t even keep their legs in the water but don’t know how far it is true. They spoilt the peace of the place. In our group too, Kallol and Ankit bhai took a dip but with no noise.
From there we went to final and most majestic Nandkol Lake but by then everyone was tired of trek and tired of lakes as well. We didn’t have the awe feeling to relish the lake. Yet few of us took photos with the lake and glacier as background. We walked down and reached the final camp from there. We were welcomed by tea and snacks and there was terrific satisfaction in everyone’s eyes. We all know now that we had seen all the lakes and the trek is complete and its only descent the next day.
We relished ‘n’ number of Pakodas and tea and lazed around. Jyothika’s tent was on top of us but as tired as we were, we weren’t keen on anything. At night Andal narrated her story which everyone was keenly listening to. I slept before the crowd disappeared in the tent so didn’t know much of what happened next.
Day 9 – Trek to Naranag village (10km) transfer to Base Camp Sonamarg by Jeep
8/20/2021
Everyone was telling that KGL is not a trek but a punishment because the information given in websites seem to be wrong. Each day easily we walked 20+ km but nowhere in website it was mentioned like that. Plus, we had one horrid day of Blizzard. So, the feeling was quintessential. When we said the same to our guides, Saddam and Nawaz, they were like, “wait for the last day, after that you’ll say that you’ll never step back here” His words became so true by the time we got on the car.
There was a stream crossing with a shacky log to start the day. I had seen on Facebook that it was even more dangerous a week ago because there was only one log. Now, at least they had kept two logs. Still the way it shakes and the stream of water below tests your guts. I tried my best to mask my feelings and walk on it. After crossing the stream, it was beautiful meadow walk with gradual descent. I was hoping that’s how it would be for the whole day but it didn’t take much long to prove me wrong.
We had our final checking in the army post where a Tamil soldier gave Andal an ID card to parcel. From there we could spot more trees but the terrain was barren. He gave Raja a Tropicana pomegranate juice. Something I hate but it felt divine at that time. Andal, Raja and I walked last and together till Maggi point where we met with remaining trek mates from our batch and from other batches. There was a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment in everyone. Raja never stopped trying Kahwah. Andal had coffee and Maggi. Former was disastrous as expected. People were getting signal there and hurriedly calling their folks which was irritating to watch. Wonder why such a hurry to get the network, I didn’t understand.
But the real disaster happened after that. What I thought was the end point was just the half way point. Seeing that the network was available I thought we had almost reached the village but I was wrong. After that was a steep descent for close to three hours. I thought it’d maximum be an hour more and sped past everyone but after reaching the first set of our trek mates I understood still there was a long distance to go. Now, there was no stepping back so I didn’t reduce my pace. Naturally my knees and ankles bore the brunt. One more reason for descending fast was that our guides were not interested to take us to Naranag temple which someone said was beautiful.
I got down first and Prashanth was with me. Ankit and Venkat joined within seconds and our next task were to go see the temple. I had a tougher time than the remaining, as I was coming last and I caught up with them only on the midway of second half where they were already taking rest. But the humid conditions irritated me. So, I didn’t rest at all and came all the way done with rapid pace.
Once we stepped into the Naranag temple, I was satisfied. There was nothing but ruins but it was beautiful. To see it now in photos it looks even more beautiful. Andal came next and we walked around the temple. There was this crazy Kashmiri family who were compelling me to take photos in every angle. And ever since I came home, one of them kept on calling me in phone and texting in WhatsApp for photos. So, I gave their photos first thing after editing.
After about an hour, the remaining people came. Raja took Apoorva and came last. Prashanth was taking care of the bag like a good scout and immediately gave a good impression of me. He said that the guides told to leave the bag there and get on car, as it would remain safe but he was still guarding it. That’s what bros do. We guard each other’s back bag. We got on the cab immediately and set off to our base camp, What I thought to be a half an hour drive took more than an hour but just to rest our bum in a cushioned seat felt heavenly.
The drive was amazing, the same path feels so much meaningful when you accomplish something. Raja who had not had non veg for the past three years wanted to start his non veg habit by eating the kebab which he saw in Sonamarg market on Day 1 so he kept on insisting on it. But once I hit our hotel all I was thinking was the hot water bath. Nothing feels heavenly than a hot water bath after the trek. So, I went for bath and Raja and co. went to market. We got Gulab Jamun for that day’s dinner and the other dishes too were amazing. In fact, it was the best dinner of the trek. Icing on the cake was that, I got the water bottle and cup which I thought I had lost.
There wasn’t any camp fire or certificate distribution, thankfully so. Post dinner each of us were planning on what to do the next day. Kallol and co along with Ankit decided that they’d start early the same day because Sakshi had the flight on the same day which Ankit also booked because he would not be able to catch the train from Jammu which he had booked prior. Kallol and Prachi too left along with them as Kallol wanted to attend some classes. Venkat and Apoorva had decided to visit the Kargil War Museum. Andal, Raja and I had already decided that we’d visit the glacier. They were sport enough to walk another day, Andal wanted to take the mule just for a change. Anyways I was happy that they were game for it. Prashanth was the one who was in dilemma and finally he decided he’d go to museum.
Day 10 – Thajiwas Glacier and back to Srinagar
8/21/2021
We woke up on time, had an early breakfast, bid farewell to Kallol and co. and started our walk to glacier. Andal took right at our hotel step. It was quite early so there were no tourists but touts were still compelling us to take the horse. Andal came in a different way and we took a different path. We reached the topmost Maggi point. The horse fellow and dhaba owner told that’s the last point so we settled to have Maggi and chai as usual viewing at some glacier expecting it to Thajiwas. Supposedly there was ice till June till the Dhaba point where sledging and stuff happened. Don’t know how true it is. Only good thing that happened there was I got a taste of their Hookah. There was no ice at all. But some people went beyond the Maggi point. Didn’t know till where they were taken. We took a wrong turn and came half an hour late after Andal had arrived.
Our cab driver sent by Sahil was already there and we bid goodbye to our Hotel. Andal was citing how a stream passing by is always a sight to behold. I concurred. Raja and Andal slept. I too was about to sleep but the driver stopped for lunch at some point near Naranag. I felt that was the better option because we were too tired and wouldn’t have the energy to go out and eat properly in Srinagar. More importantly than that I wanted a good afternoon nap so I was happy with it. But Raja and Andal had other ideas.
There was a shopping place where the owner identified that we were from Tamil Nadu and invited us with his broken Tamil (nala irukinga item) but we set off to eat first. Even though the service was paltry, food was amazing. Dum Aloo was to die for. Andal wanted to “just have a look” before getting into the car and the devil’s horn grew there. The situation escalated from “just having a look” to “shop till you drop” within minutes. She shopped for eight thousand rupees and Raja too shopped for few thousand rupees. Our guys were back to form. My afternoon nap gone. We reached Alamdar Guest House at 4 PM. It felt good to be back to the familiar setting. Sahil welcomed us like his own and gave us an amazing Kahwah to start with. We had a special discount of Rs. 500 for the room.
I immediately took hot water bath and slept even though I wasn’t having an urge to sleep like how I felt before starting from the Sonamarg. We quickly got ready for dinner. We wanted to try every street food that was available. We first started with roadside kebabs which was amazing, then ice cream, then almond cake in bakery and finally reached Imran Cafeteria for barbeque. For Rs. 980, it was a steal. All through the while Raja made terrific research on what’s the best price, he could get for Kahwah. I was amazed by his dedication.
Because we had a number of items before dinner, we weren’t as hungry as we thought we would be. Yet, we feasted like anything. That’s were Prashanth joined us. As usual he made the moment happening with the mishaps he had for the day. We had a hearty laugh along with a hefty dinner. But we were not done yet, we went to a leather store where our guys again went on a spree and bought a number of stuffs. That’s when I understood that Prashanth too was a “koottu kalavani”
We came back home dead tired and dozed off. We told Sahil to book us a Shikara for tomorrow. He asked us whether we wanted to take an early morning one or the late one. We chose the late one. I knew nothing after that and slept off.
Day 11 – Return of the dragon
8/22/2021
We woke up a bit late, had Aloo Paratha and took the Shikara Ride for Rs. 1000. I felt it to be costlier. Last time around the hotel owner asked much less. Anyways as soon as we sat in the sofa, it felt heavenly. I thought I’d hate the ride but it was lovely. He showed us a number of points like houseboats which came in serials, flower garden, vegetable garden etc. but it’s the ride which was special. A lot of people trouble you to buy stuff. We ate and bought few items.
We were taken to a shop and that’s where the devils horns bore again and Andal and Raja shopped for two hours. We had to hurry to Mughal Darbar for Wazwan, which was amazing but the waiters as usual were not satisfied with any amount of tip we gave. Raja spotted a great Gulab Jamun cum Rasgulla cum Semiya shop. The dessert was amazing. We hurried in an auto to room and asked Sahil to arrange cab quickly to airport. This time he arranged it for Rs. 600.
After bypassing all the annoying security checks in Srinagar airport, I asked Andal to keep the power bank in check in luggage, which bit back me as I had to go and remove it from the bag later. Only good thing is I saw the room where these checking’s were done. For some reason I felt Andal was in bad mood throughout the day, even before the power bank incident.
I didn’t sleep in the Delhi flight but was terribly tired. The Premium Plaza lounge in Delhi wasn’t great but we got what we wanted. Like Andal pointed out Raja used that few minutes to shop again, but he got all good stuff from Patanjali. Loved the Elachi Cream Biscuit which I had after ages. Delhi to Chennai flight was horrible because I was dead tired and the flights are most uncomfortable for sleeping.
The annoyance to get the cab from airport is second to none. Best thing to do is to walk out of airport and get it but with the amount of luggage these people had, it wasn’t possible. Raja booked a cab for Rs. 800 which would drop us one by one. Even though that was a waste of time, the driver seemed to be a nice guy and it reminded me of office night cab.
I came home late at night and kept on knocking the door which they opened only after I made a call. Tired like hell, I immediately fell into a slumber. Mission Kashmir accomplished, yet again!
constantscribbles 