What kind of person have I become? Watching movies after movies in mobile and dozing in between and continuing to watch and all that. Till a couple of years I had not watched a single movie in mobile. Readers of this review might feel, “what’s big deal with this, I do it every time” but it is in fact a big deal. It’s like how Al Pacino whines in this movie. It’s not a Woody Allen whine were I feel happy that others don’t understand what a genius Allen is, but an irritating whine which I feel how I’d end up in future. I’m saying this without any sort of romanticization. I know there is no word as such but there are certain words which can’t be replaced. This is one such thing.
Ok coming out of whining and coming in to review. This review is based on only the last twenty minutes of the film. The remaining time was wasted watching in bus with poor audio and absolutely no concentration. I hated the movie like anything. I was even hating my friend who recommended it. But my last twenty minutes of the film made some sense. It’s not definitely my most favourite film but definitely not the worst too.
Every actor turned directors have some style. Prominent of this is Eastwood. He makes us even forget that he was an actor first. This is one category. The other category is the one which had too famous actors directing a movie. We think that it’d definitely be crap but proves otherwise. ‘A Bronx Tale’ is one such movie directed by De Niro. Even though this movie was awesome it was still in the familiar background. I’m in no way demeaning the movie by saying it’s in familiar background. He made a movie which was really fun. But when it came to ‘Chinese Coffee’, it’s not a movie that you generally associate with Al Pacino. To accept anything less than a Don character for him, that too in the movie that he directed, sound impossible. But here he makes a movie about a totally insecure man.
May be insecurity is his forte. Like how death is an obsession for Kamal. He made Uttama Villain for it. I mean, I’d definitely rate Uttama Villain higher than Chinese Coffee. But just saying. Al Pacino is an irritatingly insecure guy and the whole talk revolves around money. Another irritating particle in this world. ‘Poor’ is so romanticized in this world. Be it Ray or be in all these Hollywood directors who made Indian ‘Poor’ movies. ‘Poor’ is so romanticized. But here, he’s poor and that’s irritating. In fact they both are poor. They’re poor enough to talk about their misery but not poor enough to look for food. The latter is a totally different story. The former is the most irritating one. And the script was so well return that it irritates the gut out of you. I’d be lovely to watch wannabe’s watching this movie and scolding it. It’d have been lovely. I actually now want to recommend it to people who watch shit and claim it to be off beat.
When I said ‘May Madham’ was a lovely film. My friend said it’s nothing but ‘Roman Holiday’. So ever since then I wanted to watch ‘Roman Holiday’. And throughout the movie I was thinking of ‘May Madham’. Up to one half of the movie I thought even though ‘Roman Holiday’ is a good film ‘May Madham’ still is a better film. But the climax of ‘Roman Holiday’ just blew me away. It’s not only better than ‘May Madham’ but one of the best Black and White’s I’ve seen. The climax indeed felt like the last day of a happy vacation where you’d be having mixed feelings. You know that the vacation cannot go on and on but you want it to go. Coming back to practical world and thinking about next day’s work is such a pain. That’s how I felt while watching the climax of ‘Roman Holiday’. Sadly they couldn’t do much apart from that. It could have been easily made in to a happy ending but they didn’t. That too for a movie which came in 1953. Chanceless.
Audrey Hepburn is such a doll. She’s no Ingrid Bergman but still she is flawless in this movie. That too this movie being her debut, every move of her is so real and so innocent. It’s as if she’s the real princess acting in a movie. It’s like a new airhostess who smiles for real when giving instruction to passengers, before she gets used to it and becomes mechanical.
Within minutes of the film we start to empathize Ann (Audrey Hepburn). Wonder how much could a director achieve by just one scene. The shoe scene was enough for William Wyler to achieve what he wanted to. Brilliant minds work like this I guess. After her dose of Milk and Crackers and a shot of injection by Dr. Bonnachoven she escapes out of the house. She gets courage more out of the injection than out of will which again was very good writing. The way she behaves in street, till the point where she gets up the next day morning, the flow of events was so proper because of this one fact. That was one hell of a smart writing.
Till that time I was okay with the movie. Next day when Joe Bradley (Gregory Peck) wakes her up, she hesitates for a moment and gives a smile. Oh my god, can it get cuter than this. From then onwards she wooed me with her charm. Just as I write I could see so many scenes in the film flash before me and every smile of her. It could be made into a compilation and made as a video. This is the same feeling I had but due to another lady, Adèle Exarchopoulos from ‘Blue is the Warmest Colour’. But here the feeling is pure joy. If I have to list them it’d be when she says how nice a gentleman Mr. Bradley is, the smile when she sees him back in Spanish Steps, her saying sorry in the café to Bradley’s friend Irving Radovich (Eddie Albert), her childlike acceptance of date from her barber, her riding of Vespa, her dialogue at the wall etc. etc. That’s why it was so sad to see her crying while leaving Bradley. He knows about it and doesn’t tell her but she doesn’t know that he knows about her. So much in that one scene.
The movie gets elevated to next level only post that. What could have so easily been a feel good Hollywood movie became an epic movie only because of those last ten minutes. I loved it when Ann became affirmative, “you now have my permission to retire” “no crackers and cookies” “you may now leave countess” and finally saying how she loved Rome and how she plans to meet the reporters. Meeting the reporters especially is such a lovely scene which takes a long time for Ann to meet Bradley and the scene continues post that too. All in a single shot without changing focus. But with every one of us focussed to only Bradley. How lovely was it.
Every time whether or not I escape from reality, I had to escape from office to go on a trip. It’s not as heroic as Ranbir packs his bag and goes out from a wedding, because unlike movies, in reality I’ve to come back to office and face the situation. This time too I had to create a ‘sick’ story.
Before proceeding further here is the character list of this travelogue
Prasanna- Old timer, school friend whom you’d have seen in most of my travel/trekkalogues
Raja – My second trek with him, theatre mate.
Andal Priya – College mate but more of a travel friend.
Aarthy – Friend from office movie club, Lights On
Muthu – Aarthy’s husband
One more person too was there in the list but he had to drop out due to the eventual, marriage. This was a fairly fixed list right from the first, without the usual tantrums so except for one cancellation of ticket, the numbers were fairly stable.
Day 1 – Double Flight
8/11/2018
This time there is no Day 0 as I went on flight. That flight was out of compulsion. Because the same trip in train, even in sleeper class would have cost almost the same. Taking into account the food and stay expensed. Add to it one extra week leave. So opted for flights. First time I was going on flight with friends so I was excited. But the excitement was short lived.
I was supposed to meet Raja and Andal Priya in Velachery and go to Airport together. Raja was there at Vijaya Nagar bus stand on time, in fact before time. My cab got late. Andal Priya on the other hand changed plan and asked us to pick her up at her house. I was expecting it before but thought it won’t happen. But it did. Add to it, it was raining. Actually the weather was awesome.
Aarthy and Muthu were already there with Decathlon heavy bags. In fact we looked like brand ambassadors of Decathlon, especially the trio of Andal Priya, Aarthy and Muthu, as they were the ones with mostly new stuffs. Raja too. We five were there. There was commotion about tagging me in a photo. I was already pissed that I couldn’t tag because of office excuse. On top of it, this. Anyways I don’t have my colleagues in office, but, still…
Prasanna came really late, very uncharacteristic of him. He attributed it to his upcoming marriage. Fairly acceptable reason. We got in and checked our bags. Seems there were Saravanan – Meenakshi in the airport. Yes, not Brad Pitt – Angelina Jolie but nevertheless our folks seemed to be excited.
Except for Raja and Prasanna, others had not had breakfast, little did we know that they’re going to become the usual culprits of the trip. They went and had I believe. Another version is they didn’t have. Anyways they were late for the flight and came in last. Settled in flight, we were seeing Hello sexy, oops sorry, Hello 6E magazine and imagining what we’d be ordering. Of course, we didn’t order anything. We were in Delhi in no time. I was feeling slightly sleepy but I didn’t. Back row did.
Luckily for us, change of flights was a piece of cake, so we had lunch in the airport. Most of us ordered from a Chinese Restaurant which was pathetic and Muthu got an Indian Meals I guess, which was good.
I took the Window seat to Srinagar and slept even before it took off. As soon as I got down the flight was ready to land. Once we got down in the Srinagar airport, I did some quick inquiry for Amarnath trip and Gulmarg Gondola too. We got a Prepaid Taxi for 830 rupees from there. There was some scuffle near the bill counter, not sure what.
Srinagar was hot and humid so to sit in the car with all those woollen stuff in hand was annoying. Plus it was a Non AC car. Almost all cars are non AC ones there. As there were constructions going on, it was dusty too. After about forty five minutes we reached our stay, Hotel Alamdar Guest House. The place was tough to find and the entry to it was kind of not great but the rooms for the price was really good.
We went for a stroll that evening. What was supposed to be a tea break extended for three hours and got us so tired that we ate dinner while returning and slept immediately. But in those three hours we ate a horrible Bread Bajji, had tea from the most uninterested person, got cheated for a horrible Sweet Lime juice, ogled at the fresh fried meats, couple of us got SIM card and had a good dinner. Once back I called Sahil, the owner of the Hotel to book cab for Gulmarg.
Day 2 – Of Gondola and Greeneries in Gulmarg
8/12/2018
We started from our place almost on time. We were asked to take another route as there was an encounter. That was told so matter of factly. Breakfast was great en route. And route post that to the meadow was good too.
As having been read in a million blogs, there were ‘n’ number of annoying touts asking us to take Ponies, guides etc. No one even turns towards Gondola. As having read that it’s only a few minutes’ walk, we continued to walk. The gold course en route to Gondola was awesome. Got a couple of pictures and then tickets to Gondola ride. Throughout the walk we or specifically I was hardly able to enjoy the beauty of Kashmir because of the touts. They were constantly nagging, asking us to take the service of them for some or other things. Worst of them was a guide who said who’d show us Frozen Lake which requires special permission according to him. He came till the point we boarded Gondola.
Inside Gondola Phase 1 the view was decent but nothing extraordinary. We immediately took the Second Phase, which was brilliant, with mist all around. It felt like a scene from the film ‘Stalker’ but thanks to the usual culprits, couldn’t enjoy the moment. Not sure what they were talking about. I couldn’t concentrate because that point high in the air, full of mist, felt terrific.
As soon as we got down, took few clicks and started walking towards the lake. Raja, Prasanna and I walked quite a distance but couldn’t spot any sign of the lake still. I was wondering whether 2.5 km took this long time. The remaining three were coming behind. We got few decent shots on the way and I met one guy who was also in search of lake. I was worried because we were put on a timing in the ticket which was just an hour more. But that guy who came told that it’d not be an issue. That was consoling. He was using his phone to find the navigation. Don’t know why it didn’t occur to me all that while. Of course I didn’t have a working phone but I could have used Raja’s at least.
After some huffs and puffs we finally reached the view point to lake. Again took some pics. I wasn’t so keen on going to the mouth of the lake but others were so we decided to go. But Aarthy and Andal Priya started with the descent. Rest of us walked till certain point and returned back. I think it was due to the altitude or exhaustion or dehydration or an amalgamation of everything, I was developing a slight headache. I didn’t reveal it to others because I didn’t want to put that thought on their mind. Only after coming back to Gondola Phase 2, Prasanna also told the same. He had a coffee, I took one sip of it. I was feeling terribly cold and was developing the headache more. On top of it, I was feeling sleepy like anything. I was scared because my last Himalayan trek became a disaster, I thought I lost the trekker in me, I slept sitting in the chair. Finally Raja and Muthu rescued the ladies and brought them to the Phase 2. We were getting terribly hungry as well.
Amidst this chaos I liked something which happened there. Coffee was an exorbitant fifty rupees and Maggi a whopping hundred. Water too was available only as packaged bottles. We had a water bottle with us and asked them water. He told only bottles were available but when we walked off he got our bottles, filled warm water and gave it to us. Humanity at the end of the day reigns.
We ate lunch at 4 PM in a restaurant near the entrance of Gondola track, food was reasonably good. Every one of us were starving so we liked it a lot more than necessary. Post that, except for me and Prasanna, others went in to take photos in Kashmiri dress. I wanted to visit a temple in the premise but it was visible from a distance and there was nothing interesting about it so decided to drop. Our driver came towards us and picked us up soon. Not before showing dissent on how we made him late.
We had tea while going back, Raja wanted lassi but he didn’t get it. Only at that point I realised that everyone had headache. We were severely dehydrated I believe. But that didn’t stop us from going to apple garden. We thought it’d be like a park but it was some private party for which we needlessly paid 60 rupees to enter and 100 rupees to buy apple.
By the time we came back to room it was quite late. We had dinner in some other restaurant which was very average. Raja’s horrid luck with Lassi continued.
Once we came back to room I socialised with the Hotel owners Sahil’s family and asked him to book us cab to Nunwan Base Camp the next day. They were really nice people. Packing my bags and settling the amount I went into deep slumber.
Day 3 – Nunwan Base Camp
8/13/2018
We started off on time. It was drizzling so there was a slight scare. Because as per prediction it was to rain on Tuesday till Thursday, our exact trek days. Raja started of his shopping spree with the buying of saffron, little did we know it was just the trailer.
The driver that day was a different one. First he somehow jam packed our bags inside the SUV and we started off with the trip. There was some traffic jam for ten minutes but he was already wincing about why didn’t start early. We asked him to stop for breakfast at some place as soon as we started and he said he’ll do once outside the city.
First we saw saffron fields, the location was awesome. We thought of stopping somewhere there where we could eat but he didn’t. He saw a shepherd and told that they are the richest people around here, they’d be having at least two to three lakhs in his pocket. Then he showed us how people take out sands from boat and sell to make money. He was telling some story or the other but wasn’t very talkative too.
He sped past that area and overtook a Maruthi 800 thus spilling water from the road on them. Though not intentional, he couldn’t slow his car down. Post that he had to take a left to go to Pahalgam but he wasn’t allowed in that route so had to take a route through a village. He told that it was the military’s saying which goes on there. That’s why they want a separate place. Suddenly that Maruthi 800 overtook us, three people from that car cam and gave him a tight slap. The whole equation changed. Just few minutes before we were thinking how rash our driver rode but now we were thinking what a poor guy he is. They asked him for license and papers. He either didn’t want to give or didn’t have. I guess, the latter. We apologized on behalf of him and we continued to ride in utter silence for next few hours.
Not taking the usual left was a blessing in disguise because even though few minutes we could see the village lifestyle there. There was heavy traffic jam post that. Rain too intensified but finally we got to the breakfast place at 11 AM, like three hours after we asked for it. Couldn’t complain about the food though. Gulab Jamun especially was terrific.
Within minutes from there we reached the Nunwan Base Camp and military people were happy to see us there. They don’t often meet young people and further the season was almost over so there were hardly anyone there. After quickly checking our reporting documents we were allowed to enter.
We got a tent for 300 rupees. I thought it was free but 300 was okay. Only after settling there we started to get a feel of trek. Tents have something about it. Everyone were giving broad smiles. After having lunch all men started to sleep. Women wanted to go out. I wasn’t really in a mood but my shoe had got torn so I had too. Finally only Muthu stayed back and rest all of us went.
I loved the walk that evening. We had Tea and Pani Poori. I got my shoes stitched. He was a true craftsman. Raja bought his second SIM which again was said to work ‘everywhere’. We made a slow walk to a temple, which was simple and beautiful but closed. On our return Andal wanted to try Trampoline jumping. I didn’t because I wanted it to happen at a proper place while going for the first time. Also I didn’t want to get tired before the trek. Aarthy at that point went back to the tent. We went after Andal finished her Trampoline jumping. Ate dinner, inquired about next day’s travel to the Chandanwari and slept.
Day 4 – Enthusiastic start and a tiring finish
8/14/2018
We got up at 5 AM, had tea and went to the exit gate. We had to wait for few minutes for vehicle. The sadhus got into some free vehicle but we had to shell out 1000 rupees to go to Chandanwari. It’s a good 16 km ride with great views of Betaab valley. So in a way it’s a sightseeing trip of Pahalgam too so it was good.
As soon as we entered the entry gate we were force fed with roti, rice, sweet, toffees, maaza, biscuit and what not. We were given nuts to eat on the way too. As we were the only ones in the route we were treated special. For the next ten minutes the familiar sight of touts started pestering us to take ponies.
As we climbed upon the first set of steps a doctor present there saw Andal and Aarthy panting and immediately took the pulse rate. As it was low he asked them to sit down for few minutes. That gave me a scare because we had not even started. But after few minutes we were allowed to carry. Another checking happened and they said it’d be the last.
The next two hours walk was awesome. The first climb was quite tough but we were able to pass through. At Pissu Top we got a good one hour rest, quite a waste of time too but couldn’t help because every soldier out there was eager to talk. We had a great lunch, took some photos and proceeded to the next point.
Our next high point was Sheshnag Lake which we had all to ourselves. It was awesome and huge. By far the best lake I had seen. I liked it even better than Pangong. The colours were surreal. And we had that lake in sight for quite some time. From there we could see Sheshnag being written on a mountain. What we thought was nearby took forever to reach. I reached first and took rest, got into a bon fire. Soon Andal Priya and Raja joined. Finally Raja, Aarthy and Muthu came. Aarthy was dead tired but she completed day 1 successfully.
The military man there was interested in Andal Priya and tried to flirt with her. But boy he has to take some serious lessons for it. We got a tent for 1200 rupees which we thought was cheap but not really sure because we got it for a cheaper rate in the next two days. There was a huge glacier behind the army camp. We couldn’t go near it but took some decent photos near the camp site with that background.
As the night fell it got colder and colder. While going for dinner it was so damn cold that we were freezing. I was worried how the next two days are going to be, if the temperature continues like it. There was some commotion at night because of a solo woman traveller not getting proper tent. She was asked to stay at our tent first then they shifted her to another tent and all sorts of drama was happening. She was pissed.
Anyways after a tiring but successful day we went for deep slumber yet again.
Day 5 – Mid Trek Madness
8/15/2018
Our initial plan for the day was to reach till Panjtarni. So we got up and started our trek by 8 AM after having breakfast in our base camp. It was so damn cold and windy. As it was cold even the previous night I thought that’s how it was going to be for the next couple of days. So without thinking much I started walking. We were covered from head to toe but still we were feeling cold. That was the case for the first one hour. We reached Warnbal without much of a problem. Had cupcakes and tea there. Even though cakes were hard it felt great to eat.
The next stretch to MG Top was supposed to be very tough and we can see the steep climb right in front of the eyes. But as per plan it was the toughest stretch of the day so we went ahead with determination. We did walk well and reached the place in stipulated time. The much famed buffet lunch was present there and we ate to our fullest not thinking about any repercussions.
From there to Panjtarni it wasn’t much tough. It was mostly descent. Just before Panjtarni camp the meadow or lake was beautiful. Great photo location. We met a Tamil doctor there at the camp who advised us to proceed further to the cave so that we can see Aarathy by 6 PM. It was 3 PM so he asked us to hurry. Because post 3 PM people were not allowed to leave Panjtarni.
Panjtarni again was beautiful. There was a huge glacier behind the camp and the lake too was awesome. Again it was getting cold and windy. Also it started to drizzle slightly. Further we were hungry too. So I ate the apple which we got during Day 2. After walking for a few minutes we could see another really steep climb to Sangam. That I felt was the toughest. I think it has to do more with tiredness than the ascent. But somehow we stumbled upon it and reached the top in next 1.5 hours. Another Tamil doctor was there who told that we had almost reached the cave.
Here comes the disaster. It was almost 5 PM and we thought we could reach the cave on time but initially we saw a sign board that cave is 2 km from there, then it changed to 1.5 km, again 1.5 km again 1 km and by the time we came close it was already 6.30 so we couldn’t go for aarathy. We were dead tired. Everyone were, especially Prasanna and Muthu. It was very much evident on their face.
There was an elderly person who talked us into getting into his tent. We payed 300 for the tent. It was comfortable and wasn’t very cold. Prasanna and Muthu went to sleep immediately, owing to the tiredness. Rest of us were relaxing. Raja, I and Andal went for dinner which wasn’t good. There was a Tamil Sadhu who was talking to Andal knowing that she’s a Tamilian. He said that he was in her area for such long time and currently in Kasi. I wanted to tell him that I had planned to go there next month and will meet him. But I didn’t. I was in fact envying his courage. How he could settle in Kasi without any commitments. But I didn’t talk much. I wasn’t in a mood.
Next turn Aarthy and Muthu went for dinner. By the time they came I slept.
Day 6 – Done and Dusted
8/16/2018
By far the worst day of the trek because the owner of the tent irritated us as soon as we got up. Owner was the son of the old man. We got up at 5 AM to go to aarathy. While we were busy packing for the day he told us to deposit phone and camera as it was not allowed there. We did the same. He also wanted us to buy Prasad which we denied. As he kept insisting we thought we’d buy one or two but he wanted us to buy for 100 each otherwise asked us to get out of the tent. He was hurrying us. Finally ended with gaali saying that all Telugu people are like this. He couldn’t understand the difference between Tamil and Telugu. But that’s not the thing.
We packed our bags and also had to carry Aarthy and Andal’s bag as they went before us. We deposited at the gate for 10 rupees each for mobile, camera and bags. Within minutes we went to the cave. Saw the aarathy. It was good to be there when aarathy was happening. There wasn’t much crowd. We stayed there till the then, had Prasad and came back.
Once we were down to take bags he told to get something from the shop so that we don’t need to pay for the bags. When we were negotiating for the same. One of the guys who was present there near our tent had come there and told that shop owner something so he too was irritated. He shooed us off asking to pay only for the bag. But Raja bought Prasad for 200 rupees and we got our bags back. We had breakfast at the opposite counter and started walking back.
We were astonished how quickly we could walk back the path which took forever the previous day. There was a great spot opposite Sangam where we took some rest. Prasanna, Andal and I. The view was awesome. Raja reached in some time and told the Prasad which we bought at the bag stand for 50 rupees he had bought eight of them for 100 rupees. It was evident that we were being cheated so it didn’t piss me as much it should have.
From that place it was down down down. View was nothing great. Path was full of stones so one has to be really careful. So it was a boring four hours of descent. It was sunny and dusty too just like the title. So we couldn’t rest much. But the lunch place worth all the pain. I loved it even better than the MG Top one. Semiya and curry was awesome. Icing on the cake was the Coconut Burfi which was out of the world. I ate three of them. Good that we reached a good half an hour before the rest of the group so we had time to eat much more.
Within minutes we reached Domail. It was a huge army camp. There was an awesome army shop but I didn’t buy anything there. From there, it was just an irritating road walk to the base camp, which again took forever to come.
Andal had walked the first. Rest of us wasted some time at army camp. Prasanna and I reached next. Remaining three reached the last. Usual Culprits wanted to go to Sonamarg so that they can have a good night’s sleep and more importantly, take bath. That was a valid point but as I had not planned I wasn’t in a mood for it. Plus all the hotels were costly. But more importantly there were restrictions to go from the camp. So after trying for some time we stayed in the camp for 500 per tent.
I was immensely satisfied to have completed the trek but there was no joy, thanks to the events on that day morning plus touts plus police.
I just roamed around with that satisfaction for some time. Raja did some shopping, we had tea and then in sometime dinner. Dinner was great. Goli was even more awesome. “Socho math Goli maro” was what he was saying for long. We slept peacefully with plan to leave to Sonamarg the next day.
Day 7 – Best Day of the trip
8/17/2018
There was some announcement for people to go to Jammu at about 4 AM. We got up at 6 AM. Had tea and inquired about going to Srinagar via Sonamarg but got to know that it was allowed only before 4 AM.
After an effort for two hours we settled for the day. With nothing to do, everything we did felt awesome. Guys were shopping ladies dress and ladies were left to remain in tent. It was funny but as we didn’t have anything to do, everything felt good. We lunched. Roamed inside the camp. Raja shopped more, even more and even more. Finally he shopped for a bag to keep the things that he shopped. Isn’t it amazing?
We made arrangements to go to Srinagar the next day. Sonamarg was not even in the plan. By now everyone were pissed and somehow wanted to get out Baltal. So a Tamil military man arranged us cab for next day. We paid an advance and informed the rest of the group.
Day 8 – Srinagar Sightseeing and Daaru Badnam
8/18/2018
We woke up 3 AM. Raja was most eager to get out. We reached the car much before 4 AM. It was drizzling so we had to keep the luggage behind. We kept all our bags in the last row. Raja and Muthu sat in front. Prasanna, I, Aarthy and Andal sat behind, in the same order. I was controlling my sleep for half an hour so that I can sleep in cab as soon as I get in. That I did. Even his rash driving couldn’t stop me from not sleeping.
We reached our Houseboat Young Pinafore by 6 AM. The owner was the nice man but the kid looked spoilt. We were told that due to ‘technical problems’ the bathroom was not available. Only common bath was available. So we moved to the other room with common bath. Room was decent but WC was bad. Bathroom too didn’t have hot water option so the much needed warm bath wasn’t meant to happen properly. We got only one bucket of warm water.
Then I called Sahil, owner of our stay at Day 1 at Alamdar Guest House. He arranged us cab for local sightseeing in Srinagar. Other cabs were costly. We got our regular funny fat boy driver who came on the day to visit Gulmarg. We ate at Krishna Dhaba. Food was totally awesome. Lasssi too. Our driver picked us up from there.
We covered Shankaracharya Mandir and ‘n’ number of gardens in hot sun. Everything was overcrowded and totally un enthusisastic but just for the sake of completion we went. The driver talked us out of couple of gardens and mosque too. Our request to go to Ahdoos for lunch was straight away rejected and another request to make him stop at the ATM never happened until dusk. Finally he dropped us at Lal Chowk for shopping. He asked us for a tip. I gave 50 rupees. That was the only juncture he smiled. The only plus point of the day was ‘Daaru Badnam’ and buttermilk opposite to the mosque. I thought of going for Shikara ride but others were planning to shop. Muthu much.
Once we got down at Lal Chowk we were searching for shops to buy some or the other stuff. Had tea and en route had great Mango Milkshake with ice cream then went for shopping. The stuffs there were cheap and looked good too but again I was in no mood to buy. But it was far better than sightseeing in the morning. We ended up finally by eating roadside Mutton Kebab which was out of the world.
We then took auto and went to Winterfell Café which was there in my list and luckily was present just opposite to our House Boat. Food wasn’t anything great and ambience too was so-so but others loved it. We came back late at night and had a mandatory peg and slept.
Day 9 – Bye Bye Kashmir
8/19/2018
I knew we wouldn’t get up early in the morning and I too wasn’t interested. So got up late. Asked for the driver from Sahil for airport drop while visiting Ahdoos enroute. We wanted him to stop in Jan Bakers for some time which he refused but we made him stop by insisting.
Then went to Ahdoos. Food was decent. But the waiter pissed me saying who gives such less tip? Where am I from? A typical question everywhere when you don’t give the required money to make them happy. And I thought tipping is an option.
Also we wanted to buy apples but he strictly said know. In Srinagar airport it was pain to get down from car to do security check of bags and again get on car. Who does that?
Finally we were dropped at airport, again a tip of 50 rupees is the only thing that could make him smile. There was some confusion regarding check in. It was mentioned that hand luggage were not allowed in Srinagar but it was indeed allowed so removed my camera and checked in the remaining luggage.
Thanks to the Mutton Puff and heavy cake from Jan Bakers, we didn’t have to buy anything in flight. Also flight didn’t feel as uncomfortable as before. Finally reached Chennai, struggled for cab and came home.
Adèle Exarchopoulos gives a performance which one would straight away give Oscar, or any award for that matter. She is stunning on screen. Her smile is a rarity, her silence is real and when she cries, that one time she breaks everyone’s heart. If that’s one side of the spectrum. There is Lea Seydoux on the other side who for sure would not get an award because that’s how classy and simple her performance was. She has acted with so much control that no one notices that she has acted. Such underplay is hard to notice these days. It’s like one partner in a partnership trying to hold the fort at one end while the other is blazing guns. This, in spite of the fact that the non-flashy partner could kick some ass too.
Having known that the film has Lea Seydoux in it, I was reminded of the scene where she walks in grey dress, like that, in ‘Spectre’. But what she has done here was absolutely brilliant. In fact in the second part of film where starts getting big on the art circuit, she looks so smart with her dressing.
Like any other gay/lesbian film this film does deal with conflicts, tries to emulate a man-woman relationship in a woman-woman relationship, and also shows how a woman-woman relationship is different from man-woman relationship. But the film scores because of its complications post that. This must go down as one of the love stories that could be looked upon. A proper film on relationship, rather than a lesbian relationship.
Of course the sex scenes are graphic. But it’s a revelation. Not only was it shot superbly but also proves a point. When you think it makes you feel whether it’s been added too much because of the subject. But consider it be just another film. If there had been so much sex scenes it’d have been impossible to convey a story this strong. Mostly it’d have gone like ‘Fifty Shades of Grey’ with only kinky fuckery and nothing else.
We see the movie from Adele’s (Adèle Exarchopoulos) point of view. It’s funny how we see a film from certain person’s perspective in spite of seeing that person too on the screen. So her discovery of her sexual orientation was brilliantly done. That was the first part. She being a literature student, it was done poetically well. Hope I had known all the books the movie was referring to. If one had not known that the movie was dealing with lesbian relationship it’d have been even the more surprising because the first relationship with the guy was so cute. How she forces herself to like him, acting just through eyes was brilliant. Every time she stares at the guy there would be so many questions inside her and another part of her would shut it all off and ask her to kiss the guy. Thus following the rules of the world, be like everyone.
Post that the real relationship happens, with Emma (Léa Seydoux). The way they both get together and the part which Emma plays in trying to impress her was brilliant, even though overlooked. The first time Adele seems Emma was magical, reminded me of ‘Your Name’. Even though the intimacy in bed was talked upon the other scenes were simply mind blowing. I loved the scene in the open where they sleep on the gas and Adele shares her first kiss. The confusion and romance in the scene was so cute.
Another interesting scene is when they meet each other’s parents. When there are Emma’s parents in front of which Emma steals a kiss from Adele (steals or does it with purpose is not sure) and on the other side there are Adele’s parents who thank Emma for her help in psychology and how she must get a real job. That was one scene which I thought Emma would erupt but she holds her cool, even when being asked about her boyfriend. That may be because they are in their early stage of relationship and their only focus is to get into the bed in next few hours. Thanks to the director for not showing the household drama once they get to know about Adele.
Post that when they become a couple, the film passes on to next stage. Adele trying to be the submissive out of the two, not able to handle the house hold chores, was a confusion. But not much could be read from her eyes because she doesn’t express much. After she does the dishes and gets on bed with Emma, that’s where the first crack on the wall happens I guess. She talks about how she wants Emma in life and Emma talks about how she wants Adele to do something she likes. In a mild manner stating the other person to do something else apart from what they’re doing. In a way stating that they’d be much more comfortable with the other person if they’re doing something different. The expectation grows and rift widens.
Above all, in the final part, this is where the film truly got on me. When she’s alone she gets into a fling with her co-worker. Again making us think what Adele is really up to. Once Emma finds that out a quarrel breaks out which was the best scene in the movie. An otherwise emotionless Adele, when she finally cries it melts any heart. Her stay at school and at various places become such dull moments post that. The dinner post that and the art gallery scene during the climax is just adding fuel to the fire. The one guy whom Adele talks to would be interested in her but as soon as he finds out that she’s not outside the building he walks off and she too. A totally undramatic way to finish a movie rich in drama. After so many hours of watching the movie Adele’s face still stays in front of me. It’s like a post credit scene which usually directors do to showcase various emotions of a heroine. Only that this time it’s more in my mind than in movie.
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